Isle of Capri

View from my balcony

The Isle of Capri  is an incredibly picturesque island off the Amalfi coast and definitely worth a visit - but my advice is, don't just come here as a day trip, you need to stay a few nights as the true beauty of this island is captured in the evening when the thrones of day trippers have left and tranquility descends upon the island.  

        

One doesn't even need to do a great deal here, just stroll the streets, swim in the crystal blue waters off the rocky outcrops, have a leisurely lunch, and do some of the wonderful hikes over the island. The bougainvillea, oleanders and petunias that cover the island are magnificent and add a vibrancy that I find captivating. 

I took this photo of a superb flowering bougainvillea that covered an entire building - the intensity of colour is amazing and certainly gives this building a wonderful appeal! (The architecture of the building is rather ordinary but this makes a huge difference)

Amalfi Coast & the "Walk of the Gods'

I find it extremely hard to beat the delight of an Italian Summer - the heat of the summer sun that tans without burning, long days, lazy lunches with afternoon siestas and a general relaxed atmosphere that pervades every facet of life. In any Italian city/town/village, no matter the size, the piazzas and streets are filled with the intoxicating sounds of children laughing & playing - I challenge you not to smile when listening to it! One can not help but be lulled into this pleasurable way of life - the exact reason why I love being here at this time of year. (Though in honesty, I don't think I have come across a time of year that I don't like!) As a tourist, I think people often spend days "ticking off the to-do list", but in any foreign city I feel one of the most productive things to do is to just relax into their way of life - drink, eat and partake in the "Passegiata" - the Italian time honoured practice of meandering the main streets, soaking in the life around you. To me this is the true Italian way of life and is why their lifestyle is so enviable - there is a simplicity, an honesty that belies our Australian life of acquisition of "things". 

I am currently in Praiano/Positano - looking out on a superb view of the Mediterranean that is definitely one of life's "must see" views and I am clearly enjoying the Italian summer life. I am actually working, assisting in running a busy conference, but it is a wonderful way to work surrounded by such amazing views.

View from Nocelle a town high in the hills above Positano 

The ancient watch towers on the coastline of Positano

Positano main beach with sheer cliffs and hotels above

A few days ago I walked "Senterio Degli Dei"  ("Walk of the Gods") a wonderous name for a superb 2.5hrs walk from Bumerano to Nocelle along the Amalfi Coast that takes in the most spectacular views. I did it with a group and our guide Giovanni who pointed out the amazing terrain plus the local flora and fauna along the way. It was not too difficult, a few steep climbs often with stairs and interspersed with long pathways, high in the hills above the coastline. At the conclusion in Nocelle we had lunch in a little trattoria called Santa Croce - thoroughly wonderful home cooked pasta with incredible views over Positano - bonus was that everything I ate and drank was in credit after such a long hike! (as opposed to the rest of my days here!)

The start of the "Sentiero Degli Dei" (the "Walk of the Gods")

 Views along the path

 We were walking through the clouds at one point which although masking the view at times, did help to  reduce the temperature

View of Positano from Santa Croce restaurant where we ate at the conclusion of the walk 

FERRAGAMO MUSEUM FLORENCE

If you love design and colour and appreciate hand worked craftsmanship, one place worth a visit is the lesser known Ferragamo museum in Florence. Situated in the basement of Palazzo Spini Feroni, Via Tornabuoni n. 2, the museum was opened to the public in 1995 by the Ferragamo family in an effort to illustrate Ferragamo's artistic qualities and the important role he played in the history of shoe design and international fashion. Besides photographs, patents, sketches, books, magazines and wooden lasts of various famous feet, the museum boasts a collection of drawings by Ferragamo from the end of the 1920's until 1960, the year of his death. It is a wonderful spectacle and is certainly worth a visit to see the genius of the man who created them.

BACK IN ITALY ON GOOD FRIDAY

I have just booked to go to Italy for work again on Friday, so will be there for Easter. I love any time in Italy, but Easter is particularly beautiful - the passion of the ceremonies, celebratory Sunday lunch and the change of the season as Spring bursts into life, are 3 easy reasons to spend time there (does one need any reasons?). I love to wander the streets, watching Italian families celebrate together while I soak in Italian life.

I will spend a few days in the superb Cortina D'Ampezzo area, where I have previously spent a great deal of time for work. The area has spectacular scenery with the imposing Dolomite mountain range surrounding the picturesque alpine village. The skiing is superb, though I won't be skiing at this time of year (even though several of the runs are still operating), but rather I will be sorting out a few work issues.

Spectacular Dolomite Mountains taken from Pocol (5kms from Cortina D'Ampezzo)

Then I will be working in Venice for a week, so a beautiful place to be again. I can happily wander the small calle (streets) for days, so together with my new camera, I will post about some of my discoveries.  

PHOTOS FROM VENICE

I love the view over the terracotta - it is a look that has remained largely unchanged for centuries

I always find it incredible that someone could have the thought, that for defence security, it would be a good idea to build a city entirely on water! If ever there was a thought "outside of the square" then this is it!

I adore the glove shops in Italy. Unlined, cashmere lined, fur lined, spots, lilac, pale pink - whatever you desire, the choices are here. I often fantasise about a "glove wardrobe" -  colour and style changed daily to match one's outfit!

Peak Hour Venetian style

View of water from the prisons in the roof space of the Doges Palace

Interior ceiling of Doges Palace

Magnificent glass wall lights - these would look a little out of place in most other  places - though perfect in our restaurant in Venice

Over the top and magnificent! Each individual piece is hand blown - a work of art

 Parking Area - Venetian style

PINOCCHIO

I have just bought the book Pinocchio - in Italian! Reading it may be a little ambitious of me, but apparently it is reasonably simple as, apart from being written for children, it was initially written as a serial, so the writing is (I am told), less complex. The original version, written by Italian Carlo Collodi, was first published in 1881 - long before Disney made it a film in 1940. I will have to have my trusty Italian dictionary directly beside the book as I, very slowly, make my way through it. No doubt I will be utilising every inch of white space on each page for the note taking. It may be awhile, but I will let you know when I finally get to the end of the 205 (!!!) pages!

MY FAVOURITE THINGS TO DO IN VENICE

I truly do love visiting this magnificent city. Visually it is as though time has had little impact upon it, and if one was to ignore current day fashions, you could almost feel you were visiting several centuries ago. I have a number of favourite things which I love to do each and every time I visit.

1. My all time favourite thing is to wander among the small calle (streets) and get lost in the magic this city has to offer. The true essence of Venice is found not in the main well trodden paths, but in the tiny streets where every day life carries on despite the hordes of tourists who descend upon the city daily. The labyrinth of streets initially seems daunting, that is, until you surrender to the pleasure of getting lost and discovering the delights off the beaten path.

2. Vaporetto #1. Take the #1 vaporetto from the station the whole way down the Grand Canal for one of the most captivatingly beautiful public transport rides one could experience. Try to score a seat in the front and soak in the spectacular architecture of the palazzo that line the canal. Once you have been in Venice for a few days you realise it is more pleasurable to walk than ride the vaporetto, but this trip is certainly an exception.

3. Bascilica San Marco - The Basilica, consecrated in 1094, is a spectacular display of the power of the Catholic church in Byzantine time. The gold, glass & marble mosaics gleam in the low light & the intricatly designed marble undulating floor is testimony to the fact that it is not built on solid ground. Enter through the door on the left rather than the main entrance - it is more peaceful & solemn.

4. Piazza San Marco This Piazza, is simultaneously vast and intimate. The scale and majesty of this "enclosed" space evokes the feeling of a very grand room. My advice is to visit in the evening when the throngs of tourists have dissipated and peace descends upon it. The surrounding architecture makes this a truly elegant and regal place to practice the Italian art of "passegiatta" - promenading around a magnificent square.

5. The Peggy Guggenheim museum. I love visiting this small and intimate museum of modern art. Located in Peggy Guggenheim's former home, Palazzo Venier dei Leoni on the Grand Canal, it is collection of her own pieces which she accumulated in the first half of the 20th century. It comprises works by Max Ernst (to whom she was married), Piet Mondrian, Georges Braque, Salvador Dali and Constantin Brancus, to name a few. Much of the art was collected as Hitler ravaged Europe and her autobiography is amazing for its unconventional and privileged lifestyle. Whether you are a fan of modern art or not, the Palazzo and its beautiful calm gardens are a wonderful respite from the crowds and you can easily relax here for several hours.

6. The secret tour of the Doges Palace. This tour, taken by a very knowledgable guide takes you behind the beautiful facade of the palacial Doges palace and into the bowes of the gaol that housed prisoners for centuries. The guide explains how the Doge and aristocracy of ancient Venice ruled the Republic through a combination of elaborate monarchic pomp and a republican constitution. Tickets can be pre booked by arriving to the ticket office in the Doges Palace http://www.venice-museum.com/secrets1.html

7. Visit the Rialto Food Markets. 6 Days a week, set on the backdrop of the Grand Canal, the restaurant owners and home owners of Venice shop in Erberia Food market for their fruit and Vegetables and the Pescheria for their fresh fish, calamari, octopus and prawns. It all begins early and ends around midday, so arrive early and wander around for a visual feast. Not only is the product so fresh it's almost jumping, but you will also get to experience a slice of the real Venice. When things start to slow down around midday, and you do not have a kitchen to cook in, just drop in to "Pronto Pesce Pronto" (directly opposite the fish market in the same street) - a small counter service fish cafe which serves an array of wonderful cooked seafood dishes and wine by the glass. The prices are good, plus the food is directly from the market so beautifully fresh and it is a local haunt of many of the market stall holders.

8. Take the elevator to the top of the Campanile in San Marco. The perspective you get from the top of the campanile can not be gained from any other vantage point in Venice. The view is one of terracotta intermingled with water - a scene that would be hard to replicate elsewhere! And into the bargain you don't even have to climb any stairs. This is preferable to do on a bright sunny day, either early or at sunset. You won't be disappointed.

  

9. Scuola Grande di San Rocco. Established by a group of wealthy Venetians philanthropists in 1478, Tintoretto was commissioned in 1564 to adorn the walls of this major guild. The result is large spectacular artworks depicting scenes from the New Testament, largely considered to be his best works. The scale, immense detail and use of colour to create intensity must be seen.

10. An atmospheric Venetian wine bar to have a few glasses of locally produced wines. This is always on my agenda when I visit as the local wines are delightful and I love to consume them in the same places as the locals go. Coupled together with a few pieces of Cichetti - a variety of small freshly made snacks - it is a lovely way to pass some time. There are numerous bar to go to, but a few of my favourites are Alla Botte in Calle della Bissa 5482 San Marco and Al Marca San Polo 213. The other drink definitely worth trying is a "spritz con aperol" - a fabulous orange colour, it is a mix of Prosecco, soda and aperol - slightly bitter and very Venetian.