Week 5 New York Saturday 21 Nov - Saturday 28 Nov

Thanksgiving holiday week is seeped in American history - celebrating the Pilgrims first harvest in their new country, and then the more recent celebration of everything commercial with the huge Black Friday sales that follow. Being in NYC we enjoyed all of the iconic Thanksgiving traditions, old & new, with zeal!

The Macy's Parade is a tradition which began in 1924, and an estimated 3.5 million people line the parade route to enjoy it. Arriving at 7am to wait 2 hours for a parade to begin is not my idea of fun, but even arriving late, the balloons they use are so large that the floating characters are easily visible. Predictably, it was indeed a spectacle of American proportions - huge colourful items and equally huge marching bands that elicited similarly huge smiles!! We followed that with a walk through Central Park and a traditional Thanksgiving lunch at the New York Athletic Club - soaking in all the Thanksgiving tradition enmass.

The next tradition we partook in was a little more exhausting and one we do not need to repeat for some time. The Black Friday sales, the day immediately after Thanksgiving are bigger than the Macy's parade and it certainly felt like more than 3.5million people were in attendance when we visited Woodbury Common. About one hour from NYC by bus, this open air shopping complex holds all the usual mid to high end brands and was incredibly busy the day we visited. The prices are good, the environment quite pleasant, but my enthusiasm for shopping, just for the sake of it, is considerably less these days, so it was  a long day. All in all I would say the effort was worth it as we did most of our Christmas gift shopping, but it was indeed a big effort.

We saw several more plays this week, with the best being "Ugly lies the Bones" starring Mamie Gummer. Her character, a seriously injured war veteran returning from Afghanistan, desperately trying to resume life whilst dealing with crippling pain, is acted with believable determination, sensitivity and grit. The interesting title given by playwright Lindsay Ferrentino, comes from the Einstein quote "Beauty is but skin deep, ugly lies the bones. Beauty dies and fades away, but ugly holds it own". Very well written, Lindsay Ferrentino, is certainly a playwright worth following.

The construction of Brooklyn bridge to connect Manhattan & Brooklyn, was a considerable feat when it was began in 1869. 3 years later when it opened, people doubted it would be able to hold the necessary weight and feared using it. So Mr Burnum, owner of Burnum circus, took a parade of 21 elephants across it - both to prove its stability and in the process promote his circus - what a spectacle that must have been in 1874! On our walk across it during this week, there was no such spectacle but there was certainly no doubt the original construction has stood the test of time. It's iconic cable and suspension architecture was even more impressive when viewed up close.

A visit to the Frick collection is another of my favourite things to do in NYC. This magnificent 5th Ave house, designed by Thomas Hastings in 1913, holds an impressive collection of art in an intimate calm oasis that was once Henry Clay Frick's home. His intention, right from the architectural design stage of this home, was to leave the house and the extensive art collection as his legacy. We took a tour of this serene, restrained space where, to my mind, the art and the architecture hold equal billing - high praise considering the art collection consists of many priceless European artists. 

A few more Jazz nights this week - Birdland Jazz club has become 'our local', more visits to Museum of Modern Art, the Guggenheim and the Whitney kept us busy and enjoying all this fabulous city has to offer. 

Woolworth Building - completed in 1913 was one of the early New York skyscrapers and
sits at the NY side of the Brooklyn bridge 

View of Manhattan from Brooklyn Bridge

View of Central Park from the New York Athletic Club

The beautiful serene Winter Garden in the Frick museum

New York City - Week 2

Beginning week 2 with a trip to the borough of Brooklyn was a pretty good way to start. In all the many times I have been in NYC I have never ventured over the bridge to Brooklyn, not because I didn't want to, but more because Manhattan had soooo many things to occupy my time. Now with more time I was determined to see this new 'Hipster' thing that I keep reading about in Brooklyn, so a few hours at Saturday's 'Brooklyn Flea' is the perfect way to do it. With the approaching cold weather, this market has now moved inside and houses an eclectic mix of good vintage clothes, handmade items and delicious food. We followed this with a big injection of US culture - viewing the extensive Halloween dress up. Apparently Bleeker St in Greenwich Village is the place to see it all and they certainly go all out on those costumes! I particularly loved the ones where the entire families - adults, young children and babies in prams were all dressed in some dramatic theme. Clearly more for the adults than the children!

Sunday we wandered the flea market in 25th St - small but worth a rummage & the Flatiron area is such a lovely part of town to meander on the weekend with great restaurants and a really nice vibe set against a backdrop of spectacular 1930's architecture. The unseasonably warm weather was a perfect accompaniment.  

This week we began art history classes at MoMA - booked in to do 2 different classes - "4 ideas that changed how we see Modernism" & "Icons of Modernism" - each class is 2hrs, 1 day/week for 4 weeks and although we have both previously studied many University art history classes, nothing beats an indepth discussion whilst standing in front the actual artwork. This gallery, with its fabulous bookshop, serene sculpture courtyard, lovely restaurants & extensive collection of Modernism has long been a favourite, so spending time here with highly qualified lecturers is a true joy.

Thursday we took a train to New Canaan Connecticut, to view an Architectural icon I had long admired. Philip Johnson's "Glass House" built in 1946 seems to float among the picturesque autumn landscape. Together with a handful of other iconic houses around the world, it redefined the notion of "house" by paring back the unnecessary to focus on structure, geometry and proportion and in the process allow one to engage with the surroundings through transparency. To most it would appear architecturally simple but meticulous detail enables the occupant to feel as if the walls do not exist - Johnson himself called the glass walls "his changing wallpaper" and this aptly describes the feeling of being inside this beautiful building. The 46 hectare property, with a multitude of other interesting structures containing his large art and sculptural collection, a library, a guesthouse and numerous follies, is beautifully preserved and definitely worth the 75min train trip from NYC.

I am continually delighted and still even surprised by the options NYC offers so we have definitely been availing ourselves of as many as possible. This week we saw 2 more plays, some awesome jazz with Tommy Igoe who we saw last year in San Francisco so knew it was essential to go again and the very extensive Picasso sculptural exhibition at MoMA. To sate my love of cleverly designed interiors we have also been to the Ace Hotel designed by Roman & Williams - quirky, rich use of varied materials and a wonderful sense of fun, BG restaurant in Bergdoff Goodman designed by Kelly Wearstler - elegant and glamorous & the gorgeous timber lined 1936 interior of the New York Athletic club with a spectacular view of Central Park - a very easy place to pass a delightful few hours!

MoMA's Picasso exhibition has a huge collection of his sculpture 

Fabulous Chelsea Shop "Olde Good things" sells a myriad of assorted interior essentials such as this Statue of Liberty!

Phillip Johnson's iconic Glass House built in 1946 - no room to house any clutter! 

  

Robert Rauchenberg "Bed" 1955 - Asemblage, one of the 4 ideas that defines Modernism

We were shown the groovy bedroom interiors at the Ace Hotel - just in case you play the guitar!

Bar of the Ace Hotel - an emphasis on faux taxidermy gives it a fun quirky vibe 

New York City Week 1

With our last conference finishing in New York mid October, and the next one beginning in New York just before Christmas, we decided that rather than return to Australia, we would take the opportunity to stay and enjoy magnificent NYC for 2 months. Whilst we are still working, and with Australia's having a 13 or 14 hour time difference, means the working day is totally out of kilter, that is a small price to pay to be able to wander the streets in New York for the next 2 months!

So as the Fall weather slowly gathers pace, I intend to post weekly reports on our sojourn in NYC. My list is long, and 2 months is short...... so there is definitely no time to lose.

When our ship sailed into New York Harbour, we were the first passengers to alight - happy to carry our own gear so we could beat the crowds and ensconce ourselves in our Midtown apartment where we are staying for the next 2 months. On the 24th floor we have awesome views over the Manhattan skyline, including a balcony to enjoy a wine while the sun sets over the Hudson. Furthermore we even have a gym & glass roofed heated pool & spa on the 44th floor that has an incredible views over Central Park and will be fun to swim in as the serious winter weather sets in. This is my kind of NYC!

So, an essential start was our stay was a trip to Union Square farmers market where the product was so fresh it was almost jumping off the tables! We also delighted in watching an expert "pumpkin artist" carve a portrait of a man into pumpkin - he was incredibly good and I am surprised how seriously they take the whole pumpkin carving (ie, Halloween) artistry! 

Fabulous arrival timing, as I was thrilled to be in town for a very exciting visit from my Godson George and his Mum Steph, who were visiting from San Francisco to celebrate George's 8th birthday. My gift was a surprise helicopter ride over NYC - the absolutely best way to see NYC (why fight the crowds at Liberty island when you can see it from the air?) and a huge hit with George! It takes alot to impress an 8 year old but I think I managed it with this gift. Cupcakes from Magnolia bakery were a pretty good follow up (though I admit I think it was more for the adults than George... we LOVE that frosting!) and then a lovely wander around Greenwich village which was Steph's old 'hood' when she lived here years ago. I can't remember the last time I enjoyed an 8th birthday as much as this! 

The rest of the week was very busy indeed - a visit to the new Renzo Piano designed Whitney Museum of American Art, with a interesting guided tour of some of their special pieces. A fabulous walk on one of landscape architecture's world masterpieces (my opinion, but trust me I am correct) - the Highline - the re-purposed elevated cargo train track. The clever thing about this space is the very well considered textural planting that responds to seasonal change, the integration of public seating and extensive artworks that surprise & delight. I love the vision & passion that turned this into such a loved space in NYC - without doubt I will visit at least once a week over the next 2 months as there is no better space to soak in the change of season than this elevated 2.33km public walkway - it will definitely make you smile!

NYC also has seemingly unlimited entertainment variety  - so in the past week we have enjoyed 2 very high quality jazz shows that kept us tapping our toes for hours after the shows finished and a very good off Broadway play called "Barbeque". We have also been cycling in Central Park, visited Ellis Island (despite many previous visits to NYC we had not been to see USA's immigration entry point - just a tip, I think it is better seen from the helicopter - many exhibits have been removed since Hurricane Sandy 3 yrs ago as they wait to build the climate controlled spaces they require, so wait till they do!) 

We have also eaten at the iconic Oyster Bar in Grand Central station, with its original 1920's architecture, visited the very groovy Gansevoort food market in the eclectic meatpacking district and eaten at one of Frank Sinartra's favourite Italian restaurants, Patsy's, (plus booked to attend one of his 100 year birthday celebrations in December). A week in NYC would not be complete without several hours in our favourite bookstore, The Strand, (& a purchase of a dozen+ books... this time, more to follow I am sure, books here are very well priced and the options seemingly endless) and somewhere in the midst of this week I have even managed to squeeze in some retail therapy (limited so far, but the days are young.....).

I am always surprised how quickly one settles into a routine wherever you are in the world, and ours begins with opening our apartment door to collect the delivery of our New York Times. I know we probably appear 'old school' but not much beats opening the NYTimes first thing in the morning as the cafeteria begins to percolate. This is shortly followed by a visit to our favourite Italian coffee shop 1.5 blocks away, then the day can truly get underway.

Across the past week we have walked hours and hours each and every day and yet only covered a fraction of the boroughs which constitute NYC, so..... lots done but way more to go..............

   

Initial nerves, then absolute delight!

Ellis Island Processing room - one could almost feel the equal measure of relief & fear

A view from the balcony of the Whitney museum onto the Highline

Ganesvoort Food Market - cool fitouts, equally cool food

  

Art is a every turn along the Highline

Iconic 1920's architecture still exists in the very busy Oyster bar in Grand Central Station

Sammlung Boros - Berlin's privately owned Contemporary art gallery

A visit to the private art collection of Christian & Karen Boros, is as much a insight into the future as it is into the past, for this extensive contemporary art collection is set in an historic WW2 air raid bunker in what was East Berlin. 

Standing 6 floors high, the imposing building, was built in 1942 to protect German citizens during the bombing of the city and its exterior still bears extensive scars of the brutal period. Immediately after the war, the concrete bunker was used to house political prisoners in East Berlin, then became a storage house for tropical fruit from Cuba and earned the name 'The Banana Bunker'. After the wall fell in 1989, the building became a venue for techno music and fetish parties until it was finally closed due to safety concerns.

In 2003 the bunker was bought by art collectors Christian & Karen Boros, and unable to be torn down, it underwent an extensive 5 year renovation, deconstructing the small rabbit warren rooms. The end result is a space which stills maintains its original austere feeling, yet is more suitable for displaying the collection. Graffiti and wall signage from its previous incarnations remain, now an appropriate backdrop, seemingly artworks themselves. The owners crowning glory is the addition on the top of the building of what appears to be a very groovy glass walled penthouse apartment. All in all, a very clever re-purposing of the space by a very creative couple.

Gallery Visits are only conducted by guided tours and one must pre-book via the website - current wait is about 5 weeks Sammlung Boros. The art exhibited varies from photography to performance based installations, canvases and sculpture, and include such renowned names names as Ai Wei Wei, Wolfgang Tillmans, and Danh Vo. Often collected early in the artist's careers prior to fame, it shows a clever & well trained eye by the owners. 

Contemporary art can be challenging for some because it does raise the question of what actually constitutes art - some may query whether a stick leaning against a wall or a popcorn machine continuously producing popped corn over a period of years, have artistic merit, but I feel eliciting a reaction is often a portion of its intention - a reaction, positive or negative means engagement and involvement by the viewer. Furthermore, contemporary art exhibited in this harsh space appears entirely appropriate - the rigid structure of the Nazi built bunker completely contrasts the freedom and self expression of the art within, serving to heighten the appreciation of both.    

Australia's new Pavilion at the Venice Biennale & Fiona Hall's Art

Sitting in the midst of Venice’s lush green Giardini grounds, Australia’s new 'black box' pavilion is the perfect container for Australia’s biennially chosen artists to shine. The small canal it sits alongside is the only indication that one is in this water bound city, because summer’s maddening crowds are replaced with an open, cool, green space that absolutely surprises & delights.

When the opportunity to take the final permanent space in the Giardini was offered to Australia, it was one too good to refuse, and with the generosity of mainly private donations, Denton Corker Marshall won the competition to design the building.

The black granite clad cube, a mysterious & contemporary container, opens like a gift box presented on your birthday, eliciting the same delight and excitement. To my mind, good Architecture must always stir the emotions, and be a visual representation of people, place & purpose, so Australians can be very proud of what this well executed building says about us – quiet sophistication abounds. Ultimately though this pavilion is about what lies within, so it is right that this pavilion possess an ability to sit quietly and regally in its own skin, presenting the gift inside.

And indeed the gift this box delivers is definitely one worth devouring. Fiona Hall’s enormous body of work, seemingly, randomly combines disparate elements that become incredibly intricate and thought provoking sculptures. Entitled “Wrong Way Time’ it is presented as a series of vignettes that relate, yet also sit independently, challenging the notions of three interconnecting concerns: global politics, world finances and the environment. Ordinary materials, found objects and images are given new life and in the process elicit powerful meanings as she questions the impact on culture & tradition in our pursuit of money & power.

In this dark, still space each element takes on heightened significance, the silence punctuated only by the occasional call of a lonely bush crow, contrasted with the man-made call of the cuckoo clock – environment versus occupation. 

Of all the intricate vignettes, 2 really stood out for me – the beautiful woven forms of endangered Australian desert animals made in collaboration with women from the Tjanpi Desert Weavers are, at a glance, beautiful sculptures, but on closer inspection reveal a more sinister meaning. Woven with a mix of desert grasses and torn shreds of British & American military camouflage gear, supplied by Hall, they speak volumes of the impact of European occupation on this region of our country. The region also endured the ‘hidden’ post WW2 British nuclear testing, known as the Maralinga tests – the impact never really acknowledged by the British but clearly still felt by the Aboriginal communities to this day.

My other particular favourite, situated in the heart of the installation, were the suspended sculptures depicting traditional people in stripped out military clothing. Hanging in an almost ‘totem pole at the gallows’ format, these figures are traditional and very raw. The heads are intricately woven from military clothing modeled over life like forms, with bones and teeth set into them, depicting a frightening, yet also defiant and very proud demeanor. The military ‘clothes’ they wear, some with decorative military epilates still intact, have been stripped of all except the seams, reinforcing the theme of the effects occupation on traditional people, land and environment. 

One can also not pass the beautifully made bird nests – made with shredded American dollar notes, nor the series of painted cuckoo clocks detailed with sinister images and profound words. ‘Wrong way time’ seems indeed a very apt title for the intersection of her concerns and the materials chosen to depict them.

My only disappointment was, that my targeted visit did not allow me to visit over several days, because I have no doubt that like all good art works, multiple visits would reveal even greater depth.